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Ramses II reigned over Egypt for 66 years, built the magnificent Abu Simbel temple, fought in the Battle of Kadesh, and signed the first known peace treaty.
The Mummy That Received a Passport
In 1974, a remarkable event unfolded at the Cairo Museum. The mummy of Ramses II, already over 3,000 years old, was showing signs of fungal decay. French authorities offered to restore it, but there was one problem: Egyptian law required a passport for any citizen traveling abroad. So, the ancient pharaoh was issued a modern Egyptian passport—with "King (deceased)" listed as his occupation. The passport even included his photo: the weathered, majestic face of the greatest pharaoh of ancient Egypt. At Paris-Le Bourget airport, military honors greeted the 3,200-year-old king. This extraordinary moment captures the eternal allure of Ramses II: a man so powerful that even death could not diminish his authority.
The Rise of a Giant: Ramses' Path to Power
Ramses II, known to history as Ramses the Great, ascended the throne around 1279 BCE at the age of approximately 24. He was the third pharaoh of the Nineteenth Dynasty, inheriting a kingdom that his father, Seti I, had worked tirelessly to restore to its former glory. But Ramses was not content with merely maintaining the status quo. He was ambitious, arrogant, and utterly convinced of his own divinity.
From the very beginning of his reign, Ramses understood that power required constant demonstration. He launched military campaigns into Nubia, secured Egypt's borders against Libyan tribes, and built monuments so vast that they would dwarf the pyramids of his ancestors. His rule lasted an astonishing 66 years—a reign so long that many of his subjects had never known another king.
Interesting Fact: Ramses II lived to be approximately 90 years old—an extraordinary age in the ancient world. He outlived many of his heirs, eventually being succeeded by his thirteenth son, Merenptah.
The Battle of Kadesh: A War of Words and Swords
The most famous event of Ramses' reign was the Battle of Kadesh, fought around 1274 BCE against the Hittite Empire. It was one of the largest chariot battles in history, involving an estimated 5,000–6,000 chariots on both sides.
According to Ramses' own accounts, he was leading a division of his army into the city of Kadesh when he was ambushed by the Hittite forces. Separated from his troops and surrounded by enemies, the young pharaoh fought with such ferocity that the Hittite soldiers reportedly fled in terror. Ramses claimed that the god Amun himself intervened to save him.
"I cried to Amun: 'Is it not so that I have done great things for you? My heart is filled with fear, but I will not flee. I am Ramses, the lord of courage, the son of Amun. I will fight, and I will win.'"
Modern historians view the battle differently. While Ramses returned to Egypt and declared a great victory, the reality was more complex. The Hittites had successfully defended their city, and the battle ended in a stalemate—eventually leading to the first known peace treaty in history. Nevertheless, Ramses covered the walls of his temples with scenes of his supposed triumph, ensuring that his version of events would outlast all others.
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The Builder of Abydos: Monuments to Immortality
Ramses' obsession with building was unparalleled. He constructed temples, palaces, and cities across Egypt, from the Delta to Nubia. His most famous monument is the Abu Simbel temple complex in Nubia—a breathtaking feat of engineering that features four colossal statues of Ramses himself, each towering 20 meters high.
The Great Temple at Abu Simbel was designed to align with the sun twice a year, illuminating the inner sanctuary where statues of Ramses and the gods sat. This architectural marvel was not just a temple; it was a statement of divine kingship. Ramses was not merely Egypt's ruler—he was a living god.
But his ambition did not stop there. He also built the Ramesseum, his mortuary temple on the west bank of the Nile at Thebes. This massive complex, now in ruins, once housed a 17-meter tall statue of Ramses weighing over 1,000 tons. The poet Percy Bysshe Shelley famously used this site as inspiration for his poem "Ozymandias," capturing the tragic irony of fallen greatness:
"My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings; Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
Yet Ramses' works did not entirely despair. Many of his buildings still stand, testifying to the power of a king who refused to be forgotten.
The Harem: Family, Power, and Legacy
Ramses II had an extraordinary family life. He took over 100 wives and concubines and fathered more than 100 children—an astonishing number even by royal standards. His favorite wife was Nefertari, whom he honored with a temple at Abu Simbel that is considered one of the most beautiful in Egypt.
"The one for whom the sun shines," Ramses called her, and he ordered a shrine at Abu Simbel where she would be worshipped alongside the gods.
Nefertari's tomb in the Valley of the Queens is one of the most beautifully decorated in all of Egypt. Ramses' devotion to her suggests a man capable of deep affection, even as he wielded absolute power over millions.
Interesting Fact: Ramses lived so long that he outlived 12 of his sons. His successor, Merenptah, was already in his 60s when he finally became pharaoh.
The Peace Treaty: A Lasting Accord with the Hittites
A pivotal moment in Ramses' reign was the signing of a peace treaty with the Hittites around 1258 BCE—more than 15 years after the Battle of Kadesh. This treaty, recorded in both Egyptian hieroglyphs and Hittite cuneiform, is the earliest surviving peace treaty in history.
The agreement established mutual non-aggression, extradition of fugitives, and a military alliance against common enemies. A copy of the treaty now hangs in the United Nations headquarters in New York, a symbol of the enduring human aspiration for peace.
Ramses in the Modern World: The Mummy's Journey
Ramses II died around 1213 BCE, but his body embarked on a remarkable journey. Initially buried in the Valley of the Kings, his mummy was relocated multiple times due to tomb robberies. In 1881, it was discovered in a cache of royal mummies at Deir el-Bahari.
In 1974, as mentioned, the mummy was flown to Paris for restoration. During the journey, it was issued an Egyptian passport—an act of bureaucratic surrealism that captured the world's imagination. Ramses, the king who had once commanded armies, now traveled with a passport like any modern citizen.
Conclusion: The Eternal Pharaoh
Ramses II was not a perfect ruler. He was vain, extravagant, and self-aggrandizing. He rewrote history to glorify himself and built monuments that bankrupted the treasury. Yet, more than 3,000 years after his death, we still speak his name. His temples still inspire awe. His peace treaty still stands as a model for diplomacy. His mummy, with its passport, still captivates the world.
Ramses II achieved what he most desired: immortality. He may not have been the greatest general or the wisest administrator, but he was the greatest self-promoter in human history. And sometimes, that is enough.
Today, when we look at the colossal statues of Abu Simbel, we are not just seeing a monument to a king; we are seeing the arrogance and ambition of humanity itself. Ramses dared to defy time—and in many ways, he won.
Editor's Note (The Soul of the Piece):
"Ramses II understood that power is not merely wielded—it is performed. His monuments were not just buildings; they were stages for his eternal performance. In an age without cameras or social media, he carved his image into stone, knowing that the stone would outlast his enemies, his empire, and even his own body. And so it has."
Sources and Further Reading
The British Museum. Ramses II. https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/galleries/egyptian-sculpture/colossal-statue-ramesses-ii
World History Encyclopedia. Ramesses II. https://www.worldhistory.org/Ramesses_II/
Encyclopædia Britannica. Ramses II: King of Egypt. https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ramses-II-king-of-Egypt
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